Combined hemmer and elastic strip guide for sewing machines



June 27, 1933. 1,916,058

COMBINED HEMMER AND ELASTIC STRIP GUIDE FOR SEWING MAQHINES K.- MAVIVER Filed March 3, 1951 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 gwomliw M June 27,1933. K, MNE'R 1,916,058

COMBINED HEMMER AND ELASTIC STRIP GUIDE FOR SEWING MACHINES Filed March 3, 1931 s Sheets-Sheet 2 66'- 41? F Cg,

a 43- -E-i 2 s 9 ii J3 J6 H: J] g 44' VII 219 -June27,1933. KMAIER v 1,916,058

COMBINED HEMMER AND ELASTIC STRIP GUIDE FOR SEWING MACHINES Filed March 5, 1951 s Sheets-Sheet s Patented June 27, 1933 uuireo STATES PATENT OFFICE KARL MAIER, F STUTTGART, GERMANY, ASSIGNOR T0 UNION SPECIAL MASCHINEN FABRIK, G. M. B. 13., 0F STUTTGART, GERMANY COMBINED HEMMER AND ELASTIC STRIP GUIDE FOR SEWTN'G MACHINES Applicationfiled March 3, 1931, Serial No. 519,841, and in Germany March 8, 1930.

The invention relates to new and useful improvements in sewing machines, and more particularly to a swing machine-which is provided with means for forming a hem pocket and enclosing an elastic tape therein.

An object of the invention is to provide a sewing machine with a hem folder for forming a hem pocket, and means for yieldingly engaging an elastic tape disposed within the folding scroll of the hem folder.

A further object of the invention is to provide a hem folder in which is disposed yielding means for engaging an elastic tape for placing the same under tension, which hem folder is adapted to have the parts thereof separated from each other for permitting the finishing of the hem of a tubular article.

A still further object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above type wherein manual controlled means is provided for releasing the tension on the tape and for opening the hem folder to facilitate the insertion of the tape and the material therein.

These and other objects will in part be obvious and will in part be hereinafter more fully described.

In the drawings:

Figure 1 is a front view of a machine embodying the improvements;

Fig. 2 is an end view of the same;

Fig. 3 is a plan view of the work sup-porting arm and the parts carried thereby for forming the hem folder and directing the elastic tape;

Fig. 4 is a front view partly in transverse section showing the hem folder and the means for guiding and tensioning the tape with the parts positioned for normal stitching;

Fig. 5 is a similar view showing the parts of the hem folder separated andthe memv bers for tensioning the tape also separated; Fig. 6 is a sectional view on the line A-B of Fig. 4 Fig. 7 is a longitudinal sectional view through the yielding device for 'tensioning the elastic tape;

Fig. 8'is' a front view showing a modified v form of hernf'older and tape tensioning device;

and partlyin longitudinal section of the tape guide and showing the spring which yieldingly bears against the tape, and

Fig. 11 is a sectional view on the line AF of Fig.10.

The invention is shown applied to a sewing machine which includes a standard 1 carrying a cylindrical work supporting arm 2 and an overhanging arm 3. The overhanging arm 3 is provided with suitable lugs in which a needle bar 1 reciprocates. The needle bar is shown as provided with two needles 5,5. The needle bar is reciprocated by means of a lever 6 which is operated by an eccentric strap 7 cooperating with an eccentric on the main shaft 8.

Located within this cylindrical work supporting arm 2 is the complemental stitch forming devices cooperating with the needles 5,5. These are of the usual character. The material is held on the work support by a presser foot 9 carried by a presser bar 10. It is fed across the work support by the usual feeding mechanism located within the cylindrical work supporting arm.

The machine is particularly adapted for 30 stitching of an elastic tape in a hem pocket. In order to facilitate the feeding and stretching of the elastic tape a puller mechanism may be used and there is shown diagrammatically two puller feed rollers 11 and 12. The puller feed roller 11 is yieldingly pressed into engagement with the material passing between the feed rollers, and the feed roller 12 may be intermittently rotated in any well known way. i

The fabric is fed through a hem folder consisting of an outer scroll member 13 which is attached to a plate 15, which plate is in turn attached to the cylindrical work supporting arm by screws 16,16 passing through independent arms 17,17 carried by the plate 15 and threaded into the cylindrical work supporting arm. These screws 16,16 pass through horizontal slots which permit the) I against the lug 34. Thusit is that Mounted on the plate 15 is an uncurlerplate 18 which is provided with slots and is secured to the plate 15 by screws 14,14 passing through the slots. This enables the uncurler plate to be shifted transversely of the line of feed. Said plate has an inclined forward edge 18. This plate aids in uncurling the edge of the fabric which is folded into a hem pocket.

The elastic tape is guided between the two members 20 and 21. These two members are hinged together at 22. The fabric supporting plate 19 is carried by the upper member 21. The lower member 20 is provided with a slot 23. An adjustable edge guide 24 is secured to the under side of the plate 21 by means of a screw 25. This screw passes through a slot in the plate 21, and this per- 'mits the edge guide to be adjusted to differ ent set positions in a direction transverse of the feed and lengthwise of the plate 21. The outer end 26 of the plate 21 is bent downward and lies close to the edge of the plate 20. This forms a guideway 27 through which the elastic tape T passes. The edge guide 24 extends down into the slot 23 and forms the inner wall of this passageway through which the elastic tape passes. The plate 21 is yieldingly pressed toward the plate 20 and thus it is that the elastic tape is yieldingly gripped and 'a tension placed thereon which results in holding the tape stretched as it is being stitched into the hem pocket. It is stretched between these gripping members 20 and 21 and the feed beneath the presser foot or the puller rollers 11 and 12 when they are used.

Secured to the lower side of the plate 21 is a post 28 which projects downwardly through a slot in the plate 20. The lower end of. this post is pivoted at 29 to a bell crank 30 which in turn is pivoted at 31 to a depending lug carried by the plate 20. The lower end of thlS bell crank 30 is connected to a rod 32 which is slidahly mountedin a lug 33 and a lug 34. A spring 35 surrounds this rod 32 and bears against the collar 36 at one end, while the other end of the spring bears 3 ldmgl "ed d th thhmd 2isyie yur towar e tas viewed in Fig. 1. When the rod is m d ed to the right it swings the bell crank 30 so as to depress the plate 21 and yieldingly forces the same into contact with the elastic tape.

On the end of the rod 32 is a head 37 adaptedtobeengagedby aplate 38 carriedby a bell crank lever 39pivoted at 40 to the'standard 1 of the machine. A chain 41 connected tothisbell crankis connectedalsoto atreadle' or knee sh'ift. A spring 42 attached to the bell crank 39 and the standard 1 normally holds the bell crank shifted away from the head to the position shown in Fig. 1. When the chain 41 is pulled down the plate 38 will engage the head 37 and force the rod -'32 to the left. This will swing the bell crank so as to raise the plate 21 from contact with the elastic tape.

A rod 43 is mounted in the lug 34 and extends parallel with the rod 32. This rod is connected to a plate 44 which underlies the plate 20 and is secured thereto by meansof a 'bolt 45. When the upper end-of the rock lever 39 is swung to the left by depressing the treadle the plate 38 engages the head 37 and will release the tension on the tape separating the housing plates therefor. The head 37 then engages the end of the rod 43 and will move said rod to the left thus withdrawing the plates 20 and 21 and the fabric supporting plate 19 carried thereby. This 'moves all the parts from within the scroll of the hem folder.

A spring 46 encircles the end of the rod 43 and bears against a collar 47 at one end and against the lug 34 at the other. This moves the rod 43 to the right and a stop collar 48 limits the movement of the rod with the parts properly positioned in the hem folder. By adjusting this collar and the hem' folder the width of the hem produced can be varied.

folder and the elastic tape in the passageway between the plates 20 and 21. When the bell crank 39 is released then the plate 21 will move down onto the elastic ta e and will yieldingly press against the elast1c tape placing a tension thereon. The plates 20 and 21 will also he moved into the scroll of the hemfolder. The plates are spaced away from the lower part of the hem folder so that the fabric strip is folded about the ends of the plates and then about the elastic tape and when it is passed to the stitching mechanism the hem pocket will be stitched with the elastic tape therein. In stitching folder so that the parts which are stitched together may pass into and through the hem folder and thus complete the stitching of the circular hem. V

In Figs. 8 to 10 inclusive a slightly modified form of the invention is shown. The

hem folder consists of an outer scroll mem- 1 ber 49 which is secured to the work support by screws 50, 50 passing through slots-51,

51 in the supporting shank for the scroll folder, and this permits the scroll: folder to Jbie shifted toward and from the line of feed. the

the hem folder and forms the inner wall of fabric supporting plate 52 extends into pamage which guides the edge of aleplate 52 is carried by a vertical wall 53 which is attached to the work support. Extending into the inner scroll of the hem folder is a guiding tube 54 for the elastic tape. This guiding tube as shown in Fig. 9 is set so that it is inclined to the line of feed and the delivery end of the tube is cut away at 55 in order to give free passage tothe elastic tape well into the hem folder. This guidin tube is carried by an arm 56 which slides on a,

pin 57 extending into a slot 58. The member 59 surrounding the pin 60 has a portion which is eccentric to the center of the pin and this eccentric portion engages an opening in the plate 56. The member 59 is provided with a handle 61. By shifting this handle the elastic tape guiding tube may be moved either to the right or to the left. A stop 62 lies between lugs on the arm 56 and limits the extent of lateral movement thereof. This stop 62 is secured to the work support by screws 63, 63 passing through a sot in the plate covering the same.

The tube for guiding the elastic tape as shown in Fig. 10 is cut away at 64. A leaf spring 65 is attached to a lug 66 by a screw 37. A tension nut-bears on this leaf spring.

, The tape is indicated at T. The spring as noted bears on this tape and thus yieldingly places the tape under tension. The tape will therefore be adjusted between this tension member which engages the tape and the main feed of the machine. The parts may be shifted to facilitate the closing of the hem pocket in a tubular article and to aid in the insertion of the fabric in the hem folder byswinging the handle 61.

lVhile the invention is shown as applied to a sewing machine having a cylindrical work supporting arm, it will be understood that itmay be applied to other types of machines such as flat bcdmachines.

It is obvious that minor changes in the details of construction and the arrangement of the parts may be made without departing from the spirit of the invention as set forth in the a pended claims.

Having thus fully described my invention what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is:

1. In a sewing machine the combination of a needle and a hem folder including a scroll member for inturning the edge of a fabric section and directing the same to the needle, members extending into the scroll member and having between their adjacent faces a passageway for an elastic tape which is guided thereby into the hem pocket, means for yieldingly pressing said members toward each other and into contact with the elastic tape. and manually controlled means for withdrawing said members from the scroll member and separating said members to release the elastic tape.

2. In a sewing machine the combination of a needle and a hem folder including a scroll member for inturning the edge of a fabric section and directing the same to the needle, members extending into the scroll member and having between their adjacent faces a passageway for an elastic tape which is guided thereby into the hem pocket, means for yieldingly pressing said members toward each other and into contact with the elastic tape, said members forming the inner wall of the hem guiding passage, and means for wvithdrawing said members from the scroll member and for separating said members to release said elastic tape.

3. In a sewing machine the combination of aneedle and'a hem folder including a scroll member for inturning the edge of a fabric section and directing the same to the needle, a shiftable plate extending into said scroll member, a hinged plate carried thereby and having means forming a passageway between the plates for an elastic tape, and means connected to said plates for yieldingly moving the upper plate toward the lower plate and into contact with elastic tape and for yieldingly moving said plates into the scroll membeer in normal. position for stitching.

4. In a sewing machine the combination of a needle and ahem folder including a scroll member for inturning the edge of a fabric section and directing the same to the needle, a shiftable plate extending into said scroll member, a hinged plate carried thereby and having means forming a passageway between the plates for an elastic tape, means connected to said-plates for yieldingly moving the upper plate toward the lower plate and into contact with the elastic tape and for yieldingly moving said plates into the scroll member in normal position for stitching, and an adjustable stop for limiting the movement of the plates into the scroll member.

5. In a sewing machine the combination of a needle and a hem folder including a scroll .member for inturning the edge of a fabric section and directing the same to the needle, a shiftable plate extending into said scroll member, a hinged plate carried thereby and having means forming a passageway bet-ween the plates for an elastic tape, means connected to said plates for yieldingly moving the upper plate toward the lower plate and into contact with the elastic tape and foryieldingly moving said plates into the scroll member in normal position for stitching, and manually controlled means for retracting said plates from the scroll member and for separating said plates.

6. In a sewing machine the combination of a needle and a hem folder including a scroll member for inturning the edge of a fabric section and directing the same to the needle, a shiftable plate, a rod attached to said plate,

a spring for moving the rod so as to shift the said rod so as to shift the upper plate toward the lower plate and into contact with the elastic tape. r

7. In a sewing machine the combination of a needle and a hem folder including a scroll member for inturning the edge of a fabric section and directing the same to the needle, a shiftable plate. a rod attached .to said plate, a spring for moving the rod so as to shift the plate into the scroll member, an adjustable stop for limiting the movement of said plate into the scroll member, an upper plate hinged to said shiftable plate, an adjustable guide carried by said upper plate and said upper plate having the inner end thereof bent downwardso as to overlie theend of the lower plate thus forming a passageway for an elastic tape, a bell-crank pivoted to the lower plate and connected to said upper plate for raising and lowering the same, a rod attached to said bell crank, a spring for moving said rod so as to shift the upper plate toward the lower plate and into contact with the elastic tape, and a manually controlled bell crank adapted to first move the rod for separating the plates and then the rod for withdrawing the plates from the scroll member against the action of the yielding means.

In testimony whereof, I aifix my signature.

KARL MAIER. 

